Italy
Bergamot
Fragrant plant: Bergamot
Growing area: Calabria
Italy cultivation partner since: 2013
Special features: Traditional growing area in Calabria, passion for organic farming, modern spirit and correspondingly modern facilities.
Cultivating long-term partnerships with growers, to get to know countries, people, and cultures, and also to establish friendly contacts, fragrance journeys have always been part of farfalla's corporate culture. Of course, we also want to ensure that all producers meet our high standards during our visits. Our fragrance journey to Italy was, first and foremost, a highlight of indulgances: After all, bergamot essential oil is one of our absolute favorites.
Visually, this capricious lady hardly differs from her beloved cousin, the lemon. However, those who wish to enjoy the bergamot fruit purely should be warned of its bitter taste: Here, beauty doesn't come from within, but rather from the peel. It is from this peel that the famous (Earl Grey Tea!), the legendary (Eau de Cologne 4711!), and the magnificent essential oil are distilled.
After a hot summer, late autumn beckons us to Calabria, where bergamot, considered the queen of citrus fruits here, is harvested starting in November. Indeed, bergamot is a very special fruit that only grows under very exceptional conditions.
The Calabrians claim,
that it only thrives in places
from which Mount Etna can be seen.
And indeed – a glance at a map of the cultivation areas confirms this rumor. Bergamot trees grow almost exclusively on a 150 km long strip of land on the Ionian coast, stretching from Villa Giovanni to Monasterace in the province of Reggio Calabria. Attempts have been made to establish them in many other locations (in Brazil, Israel, Australia, even South Africa), sometimes with success. However, the essential oil never reaches its original abundance of approximately 350 chemical components there – and the quality of its fragrance suffers considerably as a result. As we walk through our cultivation partner's magnificent bergamot grove, with snow-capped Mount Etna in view and a salty sea breeze on our lips, we sense the uniqueness of this microclimate. Farmer Giorgio explains to us that this tree prefers alluvial and clayey soils, which are particularly rich in mineral salts. However, it cannot tolerate temperature shocks at all. The constant sea breezes help combat fungal infections. And sun, sun, sun.
The botanical origins of bergamot are a mystery and the subject of countless stories: Some scientific theories claim it came from China, others from Barbados (like its "cousin grapefruit"), still others point to Greece, Spain, the Canary Islands... All we know is that this species was described late, only at the end of the 17th century, and that the first bergamot plantations, "bergamotteti," appeared in the middle of the following century. The production of the "Golden Fruit" was almost exclusively dedicated to the manufacture of cologne, in which bergamot is one of the main protagonists. However, the invention of Earl Grey tea, according to unsubstantiated legend, was a work of chance: During a storm on the high seas, the ship's cargo of bergamot oil and tea was so disturbed that the oil spilled onto the black tea. Upon arriving in London, Lord Grey ordered that the contaminated tea be tasted before being disposed of.
Back to Calabria: During our visit, we notice how deeply rooted the scent is in everyday life here. For the Calabrians, it's a simple guarantee of good mood. His grandfather, Giorgio explains, taught him to always carry a piece of bergamot in his pocket—when he was working in the fields as well as on his day off. If he smells it from time to time, his mood improves, as does his performance. Scientifically proven: Bergamot essential oil contains many active components, some of which reduce feelings of stress and anxiety.
In addition to its spiritual well-being, its physical benefits are also appreciated. The workers responsible for harvesting and processing the fruit experience them every day: Minor injuries almost never result in symptoms such as infections, and they also observe an accelerated healing process. It's no wonder that bergamot has also found its way into folk medicine.
In the hall where the essential oil is extracted from the ripe fruits, the intense, fruity, spicy-sweet scent embraces us like a generous Italian “mamma”.
Here, as with all citrus fruits, the essential oil is extracted from the peel through a cold-pressing process. The machine resembles a gigantic orange press. The initial extraction of Citrus bergamia occurs by manually pressing the fruit, and the oil is absorbed by a natural sponge. We can now imagine how much labor it takes to obtain one kilogram of the essence—about 200 kg of fruit are needed for this.
All bergamot producers work hard to preserve the plant that was once the backbone of their economy. "In the past, two liters of the essence could buy a Fiat 500, and you could estimate the value of your next gift for your wife with just a glance at a blossoming tree, or dream of beautifying your property once harvesttime arrives."
The chemical industry put an end to all this, but people are fighting to revive bergamot cultivation. And Italy wouldn't be Italy if the culinary world didn't also contribute to this preservation. After all, bergamot still wins us over as a culinary delight, processed into biscotti, cakes, jam, and schnapps – Italy without divinely delicious food, Calabria without bergamot – unimaginable!
